Pan-Seared
Alaskan Sablefish
with Green Garlic, Fiddlehead Ferns and Soft Polenta
Found only in the north Pacific, the sablefish or black cod
has rich, buttery flesh. Most of the U.S. and Canadian catch
is exported to Japan, where it is prized for sushi. Heavy fishing
in the 1970s and 1980s led to a decline in sablefish populations;
Alaskan and Canadian managers instituted reforms, which seem
to be protecting the population. Alaska and British Columbia
sablefish are a Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch List "Best
Choice" because the populations are abundant and the fisheries
are well-managed.
This
is another recipe that signals spring across the country. Green
garlic refers to immature garlic plants that are unearthed before
the cloves have a chance to form. They are mild in flavor compared
to mature garlic. Fiddlehead ferns are a young, edible, tightly
coiled fern frond of the ostrich fern that resembles the spiral
end of a violin or fiddle. The shoots are in their coiled form
for only about two weeks before they unfurl into graceful greenery.
They have a slightly chewy texture and a flavor similar to a cross
between asparagus, green beans and okra.
For
Polenta
2 cups milk
½ cup water
1 sprig fresh thyme
kosher salt and white pepper, to taste
½ cup polenta (not instant polenta)
¼ cup mascarpone cheese or chèvre-style, soft goat
cheese
For
Sablefish
4, 5-ounce sablefish/black cod fillets, skin on
kosher salt and white pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons butter
For
Vegetables
2 tablespoons butter
¼ pound fiddlehead ferns, ends trimmed and blanched
¼ pound green garlic, cut into 2-inch pieces and blanched
¼ pound snap peas, cleaned and blanched or pea shoots
kosher salt and white pepper, to taste
To
Prepare the Polenta: Pour the milk, water, thyme, salt and
pepper into a medium-sized saucepan. Bring liquid to a boil. Lower
heat so liquid is simmering. While constantly whisking, slowly
add the polenta to the liquid. Cook polenta over low heat, continuously
whisking the mixture until the polenta begins to thicken and the
grains are soft, about 20 minutes. Remove thyme sprig. Stir in
cheese and mix until melted. Keep warm.
To
Prepare the Sablefish: Place a sauté pan, large enough
to hold all the fish, over medium heat. Season the sablefish with
salt and pepper. Add the oil and butter to the hot pan. When butter
begins to foam, slip the fish, skin-side down, into the pan. Sear
the skin for 4 to 5 minutes or until the skin is crisp. Turn the
fish over and cook an additional 4 to 5 minutes or until the flesh
is opaque but still moist. Keep warm in a low-temperature oven.
To
Prepare the Vegetables: Place butter in the same pan you seared
the sablefish. Place the pan over medium heat. When butter begins
to foam but not brown, add the fiddlehead ferns, green garlic
and snap peas. Season with salt and pepper. Toss vegetables in
the butter until warm.
To
Serve: Divide polenta among 4 warm plates. Place warm vegetables
next to polenta and place fish on top of vegetables.
Advance
Preparation: The vegetables can be blanched a day ahead. If
you make the polenta more than 30 minutes before serving, you
may need to whisk in additional water or milk. Check seasoning
if you add additional liquid.
Substitutions
and Options: Any firm-fleshed, oily fish, such as wild salmon,
mackerel, bluefish, shad or even Yellowfin tuna will work for
this recipe. Although nothing tastes exactly like a fiddlehead
fern, asparagus or okra may be substituted. Julienned leeks or
green onions can be substituted for the green garlic.
Wine
Notes: The rich-tasting, oily fish is balanced by the creaminess
of the cheese polenta and the bulby flavor of the green garlic.
Choose a bright acidic white with sweet pea and apple flavors
in order to hold up to the strong fish. Recommended: 2002 Huia,
Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand or 2001 Groth, Sauvignon
Blanc, Napa Valley, California.
Makes
4 entrée servings
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